Chamonix World Cup: Complete Final Summary PlanetGrimpe

Janja Garnbret will have successfully connected all the weekend routes in Chamonix © Planetgrimpe

Last night, 17 climbers competed in the Chamonix World Cup final, under the leadership of the famous Mont Blanc, and in front of more than 20 thousand spectators. On the women’s front, Olympic champion Janja Garnbriet of Slovenia won her third consecutive gold medal of the season. On the men’s front, Adam Ondra made a resounding comeback with a win, while France’s Sam Dovizo played in his first final.

A complete summary of these finals.

A very tight final for the ladies!

A few minutes before the start of the finals, World Cup opener Vincent Di Girolamo in Chamonix indulged in some expectations, declaring that all climbers would climb high on this last route. He was not mistaken. In fact, all finalists will arrive in the latter part of this track.

Mia CrumbleThe first contestant who set off for the evening reached the exit of the overhang, flailing with her left hand on a receding arc, elbows raised. All finalists after them would have passed this mark, that is, whether the rating was played at the top of the wall!

From the next climber, the tone will rise. Jessica Biles, since the start of the season, would have ignited the thousands of spectators present at the Place du Mont Blanc, by achieving the first summit of the evening. After some hesitation at the beginning of the trail, the Austrian recovers and gets back into the rhythm. You’ll reach the top just 18 seconds early on the clock.

Jessica Biles’ top was the start of a long streak. Just a few minutes after she left, Korean chihon seo Turn off the track relay, without much difficulty. Laura Rogora He will do the same, after hesitating for a long time on the last movements before committing to the final catch. She only had 7 seconds left on the watch when she made the cut.

Laura Rogora has once again proven to be one of the best climbers in the world © Planetgrimpe

Japanese youth Natsuki again He looked well on his way to beating the track in turn. Unfortunately, it was swept through the air in the last movement, fell and failed to retain ultimate control.

Americans Natalia Grossman And the Brock Rabotou, eagerly awaited in this competition, both make mistakes at the end of the course. After they understood that the road had been cleared, they quickly climbed up from the start. Thus, they arrive more than 30 seconds in advance in the last segment, but fall, two moves from the top, tired of going so fast.

I think it’s one of the easiest final methods we took. So I had to climb fast, because I knew it would go down with time. In the end, says Natalia Grossman, you exhausted me and missed the top.

But it’s my first time climbing in front of so many people, the place was full, and it was very motivating, she adds.

All eyes were on Ganga Garnpreet. She, too, knew that the road had been blocked several times in front of her. But the Slovenian, who won her 50th World Cup medal a few days ago, shows no sign of weakness and climbs with ease. She allowed herself to relieve the pressure that caused the Americans to fall before her, then reached the top in turn, with another 47 seconds on the clock.

It is true that I felt very flexible as I climbed. I’m usually more nervous knowing that many girls before me have already made it to the top, but this time I was very calm and relaxed. I just climbed with a little caution, because I knew I had to tie the road, but it was easy! Garnbret said.

For now, she added, I can’t wait to go home to find my routine a bit more, and then I can’t wait to go to Bryanson.

Ganga Garnpreet proudly waves her fist at the top of the road, facing the thousands of onlookers present in Chamonix © Planetgrimpe

In total, they are four to reach the top of the road. It will be decided according to the results of the semi-finals. Chihyun Seo, after hitting the road yesterday morning, unlike the Austrian, won the bronze medal, climbing for the ninth time on the world podium since her arrival on the international stage in 2019.

To make the decision between Laura Rogora and Ganga Garnbriet, and see who will win this World Cup, we have to go back even further in the competition. In fact, in addition to a tie in the final, the Italian and the Slovenian were already tied in the semi-finals after both had completed the course. But after the qualifying results, it was Ganga Garnpreet who took her 35th world victory. For a little tale, you won’t fall for once during the weekend! She’s the only competitor to have restricted all tracks of competition, from qualifications to finals.

The full results of the women’s final

The return of King Ondra!

The men’s competition is off to a strong start. Winner of the World Cup in Villars last weekend, the Japanese taisi homa He was a great performer on the last track, touching the last decade with his fingertips. The vertical limit is given: to win this competition, you must reach the last decade.

However, the road was not very easy, it was a great Japanese performance. Because beyond him, the waterfalls will follow each other in the middle of the slope. British Hamish McArthur Falls in the most physical lanes, while we lose the Swiss Sasha Lehmanncaught in a 360-degree angle he wouldn’t be able to control, in one of the key moves of this final road.

First finalist at the start, Taisei Homma set the tone by reaching for the last grip on the road © Planetgrimpe

German Yannick Floh, a true revelation of this 2022 season after so many finals of rock and difficulty, he looked well on his way to winning a new medal. Taking advantage of his physical qualities, he has the luxury of overtaking at the beginning of the road, preferring to activate as much as possible. He makes a short pass of the pass by pressing, but falls at the exit of the overhang, unable to hold his flat left hand.

A place where the Slovenian will also be trapped Luca Potocar And the American Sean Bailey. They both looked a bit short to successfully perform the left hand raise.

The last step of the platform will be decided among these three climbers. As with the women, it will be necessary to refer to the results of the semi-finals to determine the bronze medalist of the evening. In this game, Sean Bailey won the fifth medal of his career. Having climbed to the podium three times in 2021, this is the first time the American has been on the podium this season, and his strength is gradually increasing over the competition.

As the season progresses, Sean Bailey appears to be gaining momentum © Planetgrimpe

Final at home, in front of more than 20 thousand spectators. What more could you dream of Sam DuffHe was playing the first final of his career. After his impressive performance in the semi-finals, Sam was the only tricolor player to qualify for the finals. From the start, the 21-year-old French puts a rhythm in his movements, and it will be one of the fastest movements in this way. Unfortunately, he gets caught in the most physical section, panting.

Being in Chamonix for my first final was amazing. There are no other words. I didn’t think much while climbing, but I admit that when I got to the bottom of the wall, I really realized there were people. Reading the road seemed to me much more difficult than the semi-finals and qualifications, especially the first part. It looked a little weird, there were so many feet, I wasn’t really sure about the methods. But in the end, the climb made perfect sense.

I didn’t have much resistance, I had to move quickly on the road, otherwise I would have exploded. Hence my fast paced, Sam explains.

Sam Haviso will proudly defend France’s colors in his first World Cup Final © Planetgrimpe

Adam Ondrawho was participating in his first world competition since the Tokyo Olympics, was eager to shine at the venue he knows best at Place du Mont Blanc.

If Sam Havesou had gone fast at the beginning of the route, Adam Ondra would go even faster: it would only take a minute to get halfway! His movements are so subtle that he seems to know the way by heart. It was as if he had already climbed it several times. It’s hard to tell on sight this way, so his movements are confident and quick. Very quickly, he reached the physical passageway after being a Sam Slayer, but he didn’t flinch. It comes out of the overhang easily and keeps going up until the last time. Arriving in the last movement, he takes the time to analyze his distance from the final control, then throws himself with both hands. Unfortunately, he drifted too far in his tracks and failed to hold this hole.

So he got the same result as Taisei Homma. However, unlike the Czechs, the Japanese had not made it through to the semi-finals earlier today. So the victory is up to Adam Ondra who signs a fantastic comeback to the international stage. He won his 22nd gold medal at the World Cup and ascended to the 37th world podium.

Once again after the Olympics, Adam Ondra is back in victory © Planetgrimpe

Obviously I needed a break after the Olympics, but now I feel like it’s time to get back on top. I’ve been hungry for competition lately. And I think I chose the best World Cup on the track to come back to, which is the Chamonix stage. It was a great decision, I enjoyed being here so much. I like to climb when it gets dark, and that’s when you feel the whole crowd behind you, it’s unbelievable,” Ondra said after his win.

I think the more complex the path, the better for me. I especially liked the clip section at the top of the overhang. After that, I was a little disappointed because it was just a pure bend fest, but I was so glad I was able to recover a bit before the last moves. Reading, I was pretty sure I could get to the last shot without throwing, but it turned out to be impossible, he added about the last track.

The full results of the men’s final

Next meeting is in Bryanson, July 22-23.

Read also

Chamonix World Cup: Find out the names of the finalists!

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published.